The social hierarchy of a dairy herd is such that, if left to organize, they will be milked in the same order every day. The older, wiser cows jostle to the front of the herd. The younger, unruly members follow along reluctantly, offering the farmer a kick when possible. Like humans, cows menstruate on a 28 day cycle and have a gestation period of nine months. They form a strong bond with a calf after its born and will nurse it for years if allowed. “They’re more human than you are,” my boss once told me.

I grew up in the Bay of Plenty region of New Zealand (NZ). Named for an abundant food supply, its urban centers are framed by citrus orchards and dairy farms. At the age of 13, I got a job on one of those farms for the school holiday. I loved it and continued to go back every holiday and on weekends. I would get up at four AM, have the herd of 130 cows into the shed by five, milked by seven and be at the breakfast table by eight. The afternoon session had me at the dinner table by six. Between milkings I did whatever needed to be done, mostly weed control or helping with farm repairs.

I have fond memories of working on the farm. There is something wonderful about the routine of it. But for a 13 year old, the realization of how a productive and profitable farm operates can be frightening. The only fight I ever had with my boss was over being asked to take veal calves to our roadside pen (for pickup by slaughterhouse trucks). I refused. This confrontation resulted in my first foray into vegetarianism.

The “grass to milk” dairy farms of NZ are world renowned. NZ Dairy cows roam free on pasture and walk to the milking shed twice a day, while U.S. Dairy cows are kept in barns and fed a controlled diet. They don’t walk anywhere. Many view the U.S. system as “factory farming.” Both systems require yearly impregnation.

In the age of globalization, pasture grazing year round is a competitive advantage for NZ farmers because of its low cost. But pasture is not an optimal diet for cow health and welfare. Pasture related malnutrition and poisoning (cows eating toxic plants) are major problems in NZ. Only with excellent grazing management do NZ farmers balance controlled under-nutrition with cow health and welfare. Nor does pasture grazing help with milk production, which in NZ is about half of that in the U.S. and Europe. And, the introduction into soils and waters of highly soluble nitrates from cow urine patches has had disastrous consequences for NZ’s fresh water bodies and native species.

While many Americans would view NZ’s dairy farms as natural and sustainable, the truth is, no farming system is perfect. They all result in varying amounts of suffering on the part of the animal, the environment and the farmer. You don’t have to work on a farm to understand our food supply. But, understanding it is critical to making a decision about what you will and won’t eat, and how much suffering you will and won’t tolerate.

Working on a dairy farm put me on the path to a “whole foods, plant based diet.” I eat almost no animal products. (I cannot give up chicken stock and chocolate.) But when at a social gathering or a restaurant, a vegetarian or fish option will do just fine. Without being extreme, and with a clear understanding, I do my best to balance my impact on the dairy cows I love and the environment I need.

– Author Kylie Harper now lives in Tribeca in New York City. She is the founder of TapIt Water, which gives users information about where they can refill their water bottles in New York City for free.

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